Brand avoidance behaviour of Gen Z towards fast fashion brands
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2020.05.04Keywords:
anti-consumption, brand avoidance, generation Z, multidimensional scaling, MDS, fast fashionAbstract
Most research into consumer behaviour and branding focuses on the reasons why people choose certain products and brands. Research related to anti-consumption emphasises the opposite: its aim is to explore reasons behind the rejection of different products, brands, or even consumption as such. Relevance of this issue is not negligible: knowing what consumers do not want (and why) is at least as important as knowing what they do want (and why). Survey results, related to the five categories of brand avoidance – experience avoidance, identity avoidance, moral avoidance, deficitvalue avoidance and advertising – provide the input for the methodology of multidimensional scaling, aiming to identify sets of variables which are commonly responsible for brand avoidance. The of the research lies in its scope including all five categories of brand avoidance, which have not been tested in this comprehensive way in the fast fashion apparel industry before. The use of multidimensional scaling for analysing the aspects of brand avoidance is also unique. Its main
added value is to provide an explainable picture of variables which “stand together” in shaping brand avoidance behaviour related to fast fashion. In addition, the clustering of respondents sheds light on the dominant features of those variables, in case of the brand avoidance behaviour of Gen Z.
Downloads
References
Aksoy, L., Buoye, A., Aksoy, P., Larivière, B., & Keiningham, T. L. (2013). A Cross-national Investigation of the Satisfaction and Loyalty Linkage for Mobile Telecommunications Services across Eight Countries. Journal of Interactive Marketing, 27(1), 74–82. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.intmar.2012.09.003
Allwood, J. M., Laursen, S. E., De Rodríguez, C. M. & Bocken, N. M. P. (2006). Well Dressed?: The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom. Cambridge, UK: University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing.
Banister, E. N., & Hogg, M. K. (2004). Negative symbolic consumption and consumers’ drive for self‐esteem. European Journal of Marketing, 38(7), 850–868. https://doi.org/10.1108/03090560410539285
Bauer, A. & Kolos K. (2016). Márkamenedzsment. Budapest, Magyarország: Akadémia Kiadó Zrt.
Birtwistle, G., & Moore, C. M. (2007). Fashion clothing – Where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 35(3), 210–216. https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550710735068
Black, I. R., & Cherrier, H. (2010). Anti-consumption as part of living a sustainable lifestyle: Daily practices, contextual motivations and subjective values. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 9(6), 437–453. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.337
Budac, C., & Baltador, L. (2013). The Value of Brand Equity. Procedia Economics and Finance, 6, 444-448. https://doi.org/10.1016/S2212-5671(13)00161-5
Byun, S. E., & Sternquist, B. (2008). The antecedents of in-store hoarding: Measurement and application in the fast fashion retail environment. International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 18(2), 133–147. https://doi.org/10.1080/09593960701868241
Carey, L., & Cervellon, M. C. (2014). Ethical fashion dimensions: Pictorial and auditory depictions through three cultural perspectives. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 18(4), 483–506. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-11-2012-0067
Caro, F., & Martínez de Albéniz, V. (2014). How Fast Fashion Works: Can It Work for You, Too? IESE In-sight, 21(21), 58–65.
Cherrier, H., Black, I. R., & Lee, M. (2011). Intentional non‐consumption for sustainability. European Journal of Marketing, 45(11/12), 1757–1767. https://doi.org/10.1108/03090561111167397
Choi, T. M., Liu, N., Liu, S. C., Mak, J., & To, Y. T. (2010). Fast fashion brand extensions: An empirical study of consumer preferences. Journal of Brand Management, 17(7), 472–487. https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2010.8
Close, A. G., & Zinkhan, G. M. (2009). Market-resistance and Valentine’s Day events. Journal of Business Re-search, 62(2), 200–207. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2008.01.027
Cortez, M. A., Tu, N. T., Van Anh, D., Ng, B. Z., & Vegafria, E. (2014). Fast fashion quadrangle: An analysis. Academy of Marketing Studies Journal, 18(1), 1–18.
Cox, M. A. A. & Cox, T. F. (1992). Interpretation of stress in nonmetric multidimensional scaling. Statistica Ap-plicata, 4(4), 611-618.
Craig-Lees, M. (2006). Anti-consumption: concept clarification and changing consumption behaviour. Retrieved from http://docs.business.auckland.ac.nz/Doc/Anti-consumption-Concept-clarification-and-changing-consumption-behaviour-Margaret-Craig-Lees.pdf
Dudás, K. (2011). A tudatos fogyasztói magatartás dimenziói. Vezetéstudomány, 42(7-8), 47-55.
Englis, B. G., & Solomon, M. R. (1995). To be and not to be: Lifestyle imagery, reference groups, and the Clustering of America. Journal of Advertising, 24(1), 13–28.
https://doi.org/10.1080/00913367.1995.10673465
Ernst & Young (2015). What if the next big disruptor isn’t a what but a who? Gen Z is connected, informed and ready for business. New York, United States: Ernst &Young.
Fetscherin, M., & Heinrich, D. (2014). Consumer brand relationships: A research landscape. Journal of Brand Management, 21(5), 366–371. https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2014.22
Füstös, L. (2009). A sokváltozós adatelemzés módszerei, Módszertani Füzetek. MTA Szociológiai Kutatóintézete. Retrieved from http://ppke.snowl.net/ files/2010/08/Sokvaltozos_adatelemzes_MF_1.pdf
Gabriel, Y., & Lang, T. (2008). New faces and new masks of today’s consumer. Journal of Consumer Culture, 8(3), 321–340. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540508095266
Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). Consumption practices of fast fashion products: A consumer-based approach. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 206–224. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0076
Gould, S. J., Houston, F. S., & Mundt, J. (1997). Failing to try to consume: A reversal of the usual consumer re-search perspective. Advances in Consumer Research, 24, 211–216.
Hofmeister-Tóth, Á. (2006). Fogyasztói magatartás. Budapest, Magyarország: Aula Kiadó Kft.
Hogg, M. K., & Banister, E. N. (2001). Dislikes, Distastes and the Undesired Self: Conceptualising and Exploring the Role of the Undesired End State in Consumer Experience. Journal of Marketing Management, 17(1– 2), 73–104. https://doi.org/10.1362/0267257012571447
Hu, K.-L., & Shiau, R.-J. (2015). An empirical study of purchase intention on fast fashion goods in Taiwan. The international Journal of Organizational Innovation (Online), 7(3), 126–144.
Iyer, R., & Muncy, J. A. (2009). Purpose and object of anti-consumption. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 160–168. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2008.01.023
Joung, H. M. (2014). Fast-fashion consumers’ post-purchase behaviours. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 42(8), 688–697. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-03-2013-0055
Kapferer J. N. (2008). New strategic management (4th ed.). Bodmin, UK: Kogan Page.
Keller, K. L. (1993). Conceptualizing, Measuring, and Managing Customer-Based Brand Equity. Journal of Marketing, 57(1), 1-22. https://doi.org/10.2307/1252054
Kim, H., Choo, H. J., & Yoon, N. (2013). The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 243–260. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0070
Knittel, Z., Beurer, K., & Berndt, A. (2016). Brand avoidance among Generation Y consumers. Qualitative Market Research, 19(1), 27–43. https://doi.org/10.1108/QMR-03-2015-0019
Kruskal, J. B. (1964). Multidimensional scaling by optimizing the goodness of fit to a nonmetric hypothesis. Psychometrika. 29(1), 1-27.
Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M., & Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706–714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060
Laruccia, M. M., Nascimento, J. V., Deghi, G. J., & Garcia, M. G. (2011). A Study of Consumer Behavior on Recycling of Fluorescent Lamps in São Paulo, Brazil. International Journal of Business Administration, (3), 101-112. https://doi.org/10.5430/ijba.v2n3p101
Lee, M. S. W., & Fernandez, K. V. (2009). Anti-consumption: An overview and research agenda. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 145–147. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2008.01.021
Lee, M. S. W., Motion, J., & Conroy, D. (2009a). Anti-consumption and brand avoidance. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 169–180. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2008.01.024
Lee, M. S.W., Conroy, D., & Motion, J. (2009b). Brand avoidance: A negative promises perspective. Advances in Consumer Research, 36 (2009), 421–429.
Lee, M. S. W., Conroy, D., & Motion, J. (2012). Brand avoidance, genetic modification, and brandlessness. Australasian Marketing Journal, 20(4), 297–302. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2012.07.003
Lehota, J. (2001). Marketingkutatás az agrárgazdaságban. Budapest, Magyarország: Mezőgazda Kiadó.
Majerova, J., & Kliestik, T. (2015). Brand Valuation as an Im
manent Component of Brand Value Building and Managing. Procedia Economics and Finance, 26, 546–552. https://doi.org/10.1016/s2212-5671(15)00953-3
MarketLine (2015a). Global Apparel Retail. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2015b). Apparel Retail in Europe. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2014a). Womenswear in Hungary. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2014b). Menswear in Hungary. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2014c). Childrenswear in Hungary. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2014d). Global Apparel Retail. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/
MarketLine (2014e). Apparel Retail in Europe. Retrieved from https://store.marketline.com/ Marketline (2013). Apparel Retail in Hungary. Retrieved from https:// store.marketline.com/
Mascó, A. (2012). Entre Generaciones. No te quedes fuera del futuro. Buenos Aires, Argentína: Temas
McCrindle, M., & Wolfinger, E. (2010). Az XYZ ábécéje. A nemzedékek meghatározása. Korunk, 3(11), 13-18.
Miller, K. (2013). Hedonic customer responses to fast fashion and replicas. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 160–174. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0072
Mostafa, M. M. (2015). Knowledge discovery of hidden consumer purchase behaviour: A market basket analy-sis. International Journal of Data Analysis Techniques and Strategies, 7(4), 384–405.
https://doi.org/10.1504/IJDATS.2015.073867
Nógrádi-Szabó, Z., & Neulinger, Á. (2017). Értékek és életmód generációs megközelítésben: a Z generáció. I n E . Bányai, B. L ányi, M . Törőcsik ( Eds.): Tükröződés, Társtudományok, Trendek, Fogyasztás (pp.1-730). Pécs, Magyarország: Pécsi Tudományegyetem. Retrieved from https://emok.hu/tanulmany-kereso/c9:tukrozodes-tarstudomanyok-trendek-fogyasztas
Nunnally, J. C. (1978). Psychometric theory. New York, United States: McGraw-Hill.
Okonkwo, U. (2007). Luxury branding. Trends, Tactics, Techniques. London, United Kingdom: Palgrave MacMillan.
Olins, W. (2009). Branding Manual. Romania: Velland.
Oliva, T. A., Oliver, R. L., & MacMillan, I. C. (1992). A Catastrophe Model for Developing Service Satisfaction Strategies. Journal of Marketing, 56(3), 83-95. https://doi.org/10.2307/1252298
P. Abeles, T. (2014). Fast fashion and the future. On the Horizon, 22(2), 157–160. https://doi.org/10.1108/oth-06-2013-0025
Patel, D. (2017). 5 Differences between Marketing To Millennials vs. Gen Z. Retrieved from Forbes website: https://www.forbes.com/sites/deeppatel/2017/11/27/5-d%E2%80%8Bifferences-%E2%80%8Bbetween-%E2%80%8Bmarketing-%E2%80%8Bto%E2%80%8B-m%E2%80%8Billennials-v%E2%80%8Bs%E2%80%8B-%E2%80%8Bgen-z/
Panayides, P. (2013). Coefficient alpha: Interpret with caution. Europe’s Journal of Psychology, 9(4), 687–696. https://doi.org/10.5964/ejop.v9i4.653
Pookulangara, S., & Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions-An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20(2), 200–206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
Priporas, C. V., Stylos, N., & Fotiadis, A. K. (2017). Generation Z consumers’ expectations of interactions in smart retailing: A future agenda. Computers in Human Behavior, 77, 374–381. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chb.2017.01.058
Prónay, Sz. (2016). Új megoldások a fogyasztói magatartás tendenciáinak vizsgálatára. Vezetéstudomány, 47(4), 30-34.
Rindell, A., Strandvik, T., & Wilén, K. (2014). Ethical consumers’ brand avoidance. Journal of Product and Brand Management, 23(2), 114–120. https://doi.org/10.1108/JPBM-09-2013-0391
Runfola, A., & Guercini, S. (2013). Fast fashion companies coping with internationalization: Driving the change or changing the model? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 190–205. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0075
Simon, J. (2006). A klaszterelemzés alkalmazási lehetőségei a marketingkutatásban. Statisztikai Szemle, 84(7), 527-651.
Sirgy, M. J. (1982). Self-Concept in Consumer Behavior: A Critical Review. Journal of Consumer Research, 9(3), 287-301. https://doi.org/10.1086/208924
Sull, D., & Turconi, S. (2008). Fast fashion lessons. Business Strategy Review, 19(2), 4–11. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-8616.2008.00527.x
Tamasits, D., & Prónay, Sz. (2017). „Nem a párom, csak a haverom”- a fogyasztó-márka közötti viszonyok feltáró vizsgálata. In E. Bányai, B. Lányi, M. Törőcsik (Eds.), Tükröződés, Társtudományok, Trendek, Fogyasztás (pp. 1-730). Pécs, Magyarország: Pécsi Tudományegyetem. Retrieved from https://emok.hu/tanulmany-kereso/ c9:tukrozodes-tarstudomanyok-trendek-fogyasztas
Tamasits, D., & Prónay, Sz. (2018). A fogyasztó és a márka közötti viszony új dimenziói. Vezetéstudomány, 49(3), 11-18. https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2018.03.02
Taplin, I. M. (2014). Who is to blame?: A re-examination of fast fashion after the 2013 factory disaster in Bangladesh. Critical Perspectives on International Business, 10(1/2), 72 – 83. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/cpoib-09-2013-0035
Tari, A. (2011). Z generáció. Budapest, Magyarország:Tericum Kiadó.
Thompson, C. J., Rindfleisch, A., & Arsel, Z. (2006). Emotional branding and the strategic value of the dop-pelgänger brand image. Journal of Marketing, 70(1), 50–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jneb.2005.11.002
Törőcsik, M.(2016). A fogyasztói magatartás új tendenciái. Vezetéstudomány, 47(4), 19-25.
Wernerfelt, B. (1984). A resource‐based view of the firm. Strategic Management Journal, 5(2), 171–180. https://doi.org/10.1002/smj.4250050207
Williams, K., & Page, R. (2011). Marketing to the generations. Journal of Behavioral Studies in Business, 3, 1-17.
Wood, Z. (2009). Slow fashion' is a must-have ... and not just for this season. Retrieved from The Guardian website: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2008/ aug/03/retail.fashion1.
Zarley Watson, M., & Yan, R. N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2), 141–159. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-02-2011-0045
Zavestoski, S. (2002). The Social-Psychological Bases of Anticonsumption Attitudes. Psychology and Marketing, 19(2), 149-165. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.10007
Zsóka, Á., Szerényi, Z. M., Széchy, A., & Kocsis, T. (2013). Greening due to environmental education? Environmental knowledge, attitudes, consumer behavior and everyday pro-environmental activities of Hungarian high school and university students. Journal of Cleaner Production, 48 (2013), 126–138. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2012.11.030
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Authors assign copyright to Vezetéstudomány / Budapest Management Review. Authors are responsible for permission to reproduce copyright material from other sources.