Fenntartható üzleti gyakorlatok a divatiparban
A hazai mikro-, kis- és közepes vállalkozások példáján keresztül
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2021.06.01Kulcsszavak:
fenntartható fejlődés, fenntartható üzleti gyakorlatok, divatipar, KKVAbsztrakt
Az elmúlt időszakban egyre nyilvánvalóbbá váltak a divatipar környezeti, társadalmi és gazdasági kihívásai. A tanulmány célja megvizsgálni, hogyan építhetők be a fenntarthatóság szempontjai a hazai divatipari KKV-k üzleti gyakorlataiba, ennek milyen lehetőségei és korlátai vannak. A mélyinterjúkon alapuló empirikus kutatás magyarországi, fenntartható működést megcélzó divatipari KKV-k üzleti gyakorlatait vizsgálja. Az elemzéshez kialakított saját rendszer kategóriái relevánsak a hazai divatipar számára, a kategóriákat (1. hulladékcsökkentés, 2. prémiummárkázás, 3. a keresletvezérelt termék előállításának támogatása, 4. a slow fashion támogatása, 5. fogyasztói nevelés, 6. üzlet közösségbe integrálása, 7. radikális átláthatóság) az empirikus vizsgálat alapján sikerült tartalommal megtölteni. Az is látszik, hogy a leghatékonyabban akkor sikerül a fenntarthatósági szempontokat beépíteni a vállalkozások üzleti gyakorlataiba, ha ez a törekvés egyidejűleg kiterjed a fenntarthatóság környezeti, társadalmi és gazdasági vonatkozásaira is. Ugyanakkor részben átváltás figyelhető meg a fenntarthatóság dimenziói között: a kiemelkedő környezeti és társadalmi teljesítmény mellett a gazdasági szempont sokszor némileg háttérbe szorul.
Letöltések
Hivatkozások
Aakko, M., & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. (2013). Designing sustainable fashion: possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textil and Apparel, 17(1), 13-22. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-17-01-2013-B002
Abdul-Rashid, S.H., Sakundarini, N., Raja Ghazilla, R.A., &Thurasamy, R. (2017). The impact of sustainable manufacturing practices on sustainability performance. International Journal of Operations and Production Management, 37(2), 182-204. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJOPM-04-2015-0223
Ara, H., Leen, J.Y.A., & Hassan, S.H. (2019). GMS for sustainability performance in the apparel manufacturing industry: a conceptual framework. Vision: The Journal of Business Perspective, 23(2), 170-179. https://doi.org/10.1177/0972262919850931
Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17(1), 2-4. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
Binte Rab, N. & Hoque, R. (2017). Is ‘greening’ the key to sustain in global market for Bangladeshi readymade garments industry? International Journal of Business and Management, 12(3), 135-146. https://doi.org/10.5539/ijbm.v12n3p135
Bocken, N., de Pauw, I., Bakker, C., & van der Grinten, B, (2016). Product design and business model strategies for circular economy. Journal of Industrial and Production Engineering, 33(5), 308-320. https://doi.org/10.1080/21681015.2016.1172124
Bocken, N., Short, S.,Rana, P., & Evans, S. (2013). A value mapping tool for sustainable business modelling. Corporate Governance, 13(5), 482-497. https://doi.org/10.1108/CG-06-2013-0078.
Bocken, N., Short, S.W., Rana, P., & Evans, S. (2014). A literature and practice review to develop sustainable business model archetypes. Journal of Cleaner Production, 65, 42-56, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.11.039
BOF & McKinsey&Company (2018). The State of Fashion 2019. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/ our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2019-a-year-of-awakening
Braungart, M. & McDonough, W. (2008). Cradle to Cradle. London: Jonathan Cape.
Caro, F., & Martínez-de-Albéniz, V. (2015). Fast fashion: business model overview and research opportunities. In Agrawal N., & Smith S. (Eds.), Retail Supply Chain Management. International Series in Operations Research & Management Science, vol 223 (pp 237-264). Boston, MA: Springer. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-7562-1_9
Cassen, R.H. (1987). Our common future: report of the world commission on environment and development. International Affairs, 64(1), 126. https://doi.org/10.2307/2621529
Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London with Middlesex University, Politecnico di Milano and Institut Français de la Mode (2019). Support Report Mapping Sustainable Fashion Opportunities for SMES. https://op.europa.eu/hu/publication-detail/-/publication/42949294-b986-11e9-9d01-01aa75ed71a1
Chen, Y.S. (2008). The driver of green innovation and green image e green core competence. Journal of Business Ethics, 81(3), 531-543. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-007-9522-1
Chesbrough, H. (2007). Business model innovation: It’s not just about technology anymore. Strategy and Leadership, 35(6), 12-17. https://doi.org/10.1108/10878570710833714
Choi, T.M.M. & Li, Y. (2015). Sustainability in fashion business operations. Sustainability, 7(11), 15400-15406. https://doi.org/10.3390/su71115400
Clark, H. (2008). Slow+fashion – An oxymoron – Or a promise for the future? Fashion Theory, 2(4), 427–446. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X346922
Community Clothing (é.n). About Us. https://communityclothing.co.uk/pages/about-us
Csillag, S., Toarniczky, A., & Primecz, H. (2018). Dolgoznánk, ha hagynátok... Megváltozott munkaképességű emberek és a HR-rendszerek. Vezetéstudomány, 49(6), 33-45. https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2018.06.04
Csutora, M., & Zsóka, Á. (2016). Az értékvezérelt élet szerepe az ökológiai lábnyom csökkentésében. Köz-gazdaság, 11(4), 49-63. http://unipub.lib.uni-corvinus.hu/2513/1/KG2016n4p49.pdf
D’Amato, D., Veijonaho, S., & Toppinen, A. (2020). Towards sustainability? Forest-based circular bioeconomy business models in Finnish SMEs. Forest Policy and Economics, 110, 101848. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forpol.2018.12.004
dos Santos, P.S. & Campos, L.M.S. (2020). Green Practices in the fashion supply chain: a literature review. In Leal Filho, W., Tortato, U. & Frankenberger, F. (Eds.), Universities and Sustainable Communities: Meeting the Goals of the Agenda 2030, World Sustainability Series Vol. 1 (pp. 115-132). Cham: Springer.
Drop4drop (2018). Water in the fashion industry. https://drop4drop.org/water-in-the-fashion-industry
Dybdahl, l. (2015). Building Business Models for Sustainable Fashion – A case study focusing on local value chains and locally sourced wool [Master thesis]. Oslo: Norwegian University of Life Sciences. https://nmbu.brage.unit.no/nmbu-xmlui/bitstream/handle/11250/2388690/dybdahl_2015.pdf?sequence=5&isAllowed=y
Economist (2009). Triple Bottom Line, It consists of three Ps: profit, people and planet. https://www.economist.com/news/2009/11/17/triple-bottom-line
Environmental Health Perspectives (2007). Waste Couture – Environmental Impact of the clothing industry. Environmental Health Perspectives, 115(9), 449-454. https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.115-a449
Euratex (2018). Key Figures 2017 – The EU-28 Textile and Clothing Industry in the year 2017. https://www.euratex.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/documents/key_data/fact_and_figures_2017LR.pdf
European Commission (2013). Textiles and Clothing in the EU. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/fashion/textiles-clothing/eu_en
Európai Parlament (2015). Körkörös gazdaság: mit jelent, miért fontos és mi a haszna? http://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/hu/headlines/economy/20151201STO05603/korkoros-gazdasag-mit-jelent-miert-fontos-es-mi-a-haszna
EUROSTAT (2018). Household spending on clothing and footwear close to 400Eur billion. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-eurostat-news/-/DDN-20180103-1?inheritRedirect= true.
Fearne, A., Garcia Martinez, M., & Dent, B. (2012). Dimensions of sustainable value chains: Implications for value chain analysis. Supply Chain Management: An International Journal, 17(6), 575-581. https://doi.org/10.1108/13598541211269193
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles. London, New York: Routledge.
Global Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting Group (2017). Pulse of the fashion industry. https://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf
Gray, B., Kirkwood, J., Etemaddar, M., & Monahan, E. (2018). Sustainable business models for community-based enterprises in Samoa and Tonga. Small Enterprise Research, 25(2), 99-113. https://doi.org/10.1080/13215906.2018.1479293
Greenpeace (2015). Mode und Kosum. Es reicht! Publication November 2015 (in German). http://www.greenpeace.de/presse/publikationen/es-reicht
Greenpeace (2017). Destination Zero: seven years of detoxing the fashion industry [Greenpace report]. https://www.greenpeace.org/international/publication/17612/ destination-zero/
Harangozó Gábor (2016). A vállalati karbonsemlegesítés lehetőségei és csapdái. Lépések a fenntarthatóság felé, 66, 7-8.
Hernandez-Pardo, R. (2012). Designing sustainable product service systems: a business framework for SME implementation [Doctoral dissertation]. Loughborough: Loughborough University.
Holtström, J., Bjellerup, C., & Eriksson, J. (2019). Business model development for sustainable apparel consumption. Journal of Strategy and Management, 12(4), 481-504. https://doi.org/10.1108/JSMA-01-2019-0015
Inditex (2017). Annual Report 2017. https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2017/assets/pdf/memoria_en.pdf
Islam, K., & Chitakunye, D. (2019). Get organized or perish: attracting FDI to grow small food enterprises in Bangladesh. Small Enterprise Research, 26(3), 268-287. https://doi.org/10.1080/13215906.2019.1668833
Jia, F. & Jiang, Y. (2018), Sustainable global sourcing: a systematic literature review and bibliometric analysis. Sustainability, 10(3), 595-616. https://doi.org/10.3390/su10030595
Jin, B. E., & Shin, D. C. (2020). Changing the game to compete: Innovations in the fashion retail industry from the disruptive business model. Busines Horizons, 63(3), 301–311. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2020.01.004
Joergens, C. (2016). Ethical fashion: myth or future trend? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 360-371., https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679321
Jørgensen, S., & Pedersen, L. J. T. (2018). Restart Sustainable Business Model Innovation. Cham: Springer Nature. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-91971-3
Joy, A., Sherry JJF, Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Jhan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands, Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–296. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174112X13340749707123
Kar, R. N., Kar, M., & Kaur, A. (2017). A Sustainable Business Model: Experiences of Indian Micro Enterprises. In Arindam Banik, Munim Kumar Barai, & Yasushi Suzuki (Eds.), Towards a Common Future, (pp. 107-119). Singapore: Palgrave Macmillan.
Khan, M.M.R., & Islam, M.M. (2015). Materials and manufacturing environmental sustainability evaluation of apparel product: knitted T-shirt case study. Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 1(1), 1-8. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40689-015-0008-8
Klewitz, J., & Hansen, E. G. (2014). Sustainability-oriented innovation of SMEs: a systematic review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 65(Febr), 57-75. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.07.017
Kozlowski, A., Searcy, C. & Bardecki, M. (2018). The re-Design canvas: Fashion design as a tool for sustainability. Journal of Cleaner Production, 183, 194-207. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.014
KSH (2017). A kis és közepes vállalatok jellemzői. http://www.ksh.hu/docs/hun/xftp/idoszaki/pdf/KKV17.pdf
Li, W.Y., Chow, P.S., Choi, T.M. & Chan, H.L. (2016). Supplier integration, green sustainability programs, and financial performance of fashion enterprises under global financial crisis, Journal of Cleaner Production, 135, 57-70. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.06.048
Litter, J. (2009). Radical Consumption: Shopping for Change in Contemporary Culture. New York: Open University Press.
Liu, Y., & Liang, L., (2015). Evaluating and developing resource-based operations strategy for competitive advantage: an exploratory study of Finnish high-tech manufacturing industries. International Journal of Production Research, 53(4), 1019-1037. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2014.932936
López M.V., A. Garcia, & L. Rodriquez (2007). Sustainable development and corporate performance: A study based on the Dow Jones Sustainability Index. Journal of Business Ethics, 75, 285-300. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-006-9253-8
Lundblad, L. & Davies, I.A. (2016). The values and motivations behind sustainable fashion consumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 15(2), 149-162. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1559
Markides, C. (2006). Disruptive innovation: In need of better theory. Journal of Product Innovation Management, 23(1), 19-25. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1559
Martinez-Conesa, I., Soto-Acosta, P., & Palacios-Manzano, M., (2017). Corporate social responsibility and its effect on innovation and firm performance: an empirical research in SMEs. Journal of Cleaner Production, 142, 2374-2383. https://doi.org/10.5539/jms.v7n3p75
Massa, L. & Tucci, C. (2013). Business model innovation. In Hodgson, M., Gann, D. & Phillips, N. (Eds.), The Oxford Handbook of Innovation Management (pp. 420-441). Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Matinaro, V., Liu, Y., & Poesche, J. (2019). Extracting key factors for sustainable development of enterprises: Case study of SMEs in Taiwan. Journal of Cleaner Production, 209, 1152-1169. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.10.280
McDonough, W. & Braungart, M. (2002). Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. New York: North Point Press.
McNeill, L. & Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39(3), 212-222. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12169
Miles, R.E., Miles, G. & Snow, C.C. (2005). Collaborative entrepreneurship: a business model for continuous innovation. Organizational Dynamics, 35(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.12691/ajcea-7-4-3
Mohan, L., & Potnis, D. (2010). Catalytic innovation in microfinance for inclusive growth: insights from SKS microfinance. Journal of Asia-Pacific Business, 11(3), 218-239. https://doi.org/10.1080/10599231.2010.500574
Moretto, A., Macchion, L., Lion, A., Caniato, F., Danese, P. & Vinelli, A. (2018). Designing a roadmap towards a sustainable supply chain: a focus on the fashion industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 193, 169-184. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.04.273
Mudjeans.com (2020). Our Impact. https://mudjeans.eu/sustainability-our-impact/
Nagy, J., & Diófási-Kovács, O. (2020). How can advanced information and communication technology support corporate environmental performance? Vezetéstudomány, 51(11), 39-50. https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2020.11.04
Nath, S.D., Eweje, G. & Bathurst, R. (2019), The invisible side of managing sustainability in global supply chains: evidence from multitier apparel suppliers. Journal of Business Logistics, 1-26, https://doi.org/10.1111/jbl.12230
Niinimäki, K. & Hassi, L. (2011). Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal of Cleaner Production, 19(16), 1876-1883. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020
Ortiz-De-Mandojana,N. & Bansal, P.(2016). The long-term benefits of organizational resilience through sustainable business practices. Strategic Management Journal, 37(8), 1615-1631. https://doi.org/10.1002/smj.2410
Pal, R. (2017). Sustainable Design and Business Models in Textile and Fashion Industry. In S.S. Muthu (ed.), Sustainability in the Textile Industry. (pp. 109-138). Singapore: Springer Nature. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-2639-3_6
Pal, R., & Gander, J. (2018). Modelling environmental value: An examination of sustainable business models within the fashion industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 251-263. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.001
Papanek, V. (1995). Green Imperative. London: Themes & Hudson.
Pedersen, E.R.G. & Netter, S. (2015). Collaborative consumption: business model opportunities and barriers for fashion libraries. Journal of Fashion Marketing Management, 19(3), 258-273. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-05-2013-0073
Perez, F., Gonzalez, C. J., & Aaronson, X. (2011). Village banking development model: FINCA Costa Rica. Journal of Business Research, 64(3), 316-324. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2009.11.019
Pittway, L. (2008). Systematic literature reviews. In Thorpe, R. & Holt, R. (Eds.), The SAGE dictionary of qualitative management research. London: SAGE. https://doi.org/10.4135/9780857020109
Porter, M. E., & Van der Linde, C. G. (1995). Green and competitive: Ending the stalemate. Harvard Business Review, 73(Sept-Oct), 120-134. https://hbr.org/1995/09/green-and-competitive-ending-the-stalemate
PRI (2017). The apparel industry in the spotlight. https://www.unpri.org/social-issues/the-apparel-industry-in-the-spotlight/474.article
Safi, M. & Rushe, D. (2018). Rana Plaza, five years on: safety of workers hangs in balance in Bangladesh. https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2018/apr/24/bangladeshi-police-target-garmentworkers-union-rana-plaza-five-years-on
Schaltegger, S., Hansen G., E. & Lüdeke-Freund, F. (2016). Business models for Sustainability: Origins, Present Research, and Future Avenues. Organization & Environment, 29(1), 3-10. https://doi.org/10.1177/1086026615599806
Siegle, L. (2011). To die for: is fashion wearing out the World? London: Fourth Estate.
Szigeti, C., Szennay, Á., Lisányi Endréné Beke, J., Polák-Weldon, R., & Radácsi, L. (2019). Vállalati ökológiailábnyom-számítás kihívásai a KKV-szektorban. Vezetéstudomány, 50(7-8), 63-69. https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2019.07.06
Steele, V. & Major, S.J. (é.n.). Fashion industry. https://www.britannica.com/art/fashion-industry/Fashion-retailing-marketing-and-merchandising
Stubbs, W. & Cocklin, C. (2008). Conceptualizing a ’Sustainability Business Model’. Organization & Environment, 21(2), 103-127. https://doi.org/10.1177/1086026608318042
Sull, D., & Turconi, S. (2008). Fast fashion lessons. Business Strategy Review, 19(2), 4-11. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-8616.2008.00527.x
Tate, W.L., Ellram, L. M. & Gölgeci, I. (2013). Diffusion of environmental business practices: A network approach. Journal of Purchasing and Supply Management, 19(4), 264-275. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pursup.2013.08.001
The Nu Wardrobe (2020). Our Journey. https://www.thenuwardrobe.com/nujourney
Todeschini, B. V., Cortimiglia, M. N., Callegaro-de-Menezes, D., & Ghezzi, A. (2017). Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: Entrepreneurial drivers, opportunities, and challenges. Business Horizons, 60(6), 759-770. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003
Tsai, W.H., & Chou, W.C., (2009). Selecting management systems for sustainable development in SMEs: a novel hybrid model based on DEMATEL, ANP, and ZOGP. Expert Systems with Applications, 36(2), 1444-1458. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.eswa.2007.11.058
UNEP (2013). Global Chemicals Outlook – Towards Sound Management of Chemicals. https://www.unenvironment.org/resources/report/globalchemicals-outlook-towards-sound-management-chemicals
US Environmental Protection Agency (2015). Textiles: Material-Specific Data. https://www.epa.gov/factsand-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data
Ünal, E., Urbinati, A., Chiaroni, D., & Manzini, R. (2019). Value Creation in Circular Business Models: The case of a US small medium enterprise in the building sector. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 146, 291-307. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2018.12.034
Zamani, B., Sandin, G. & Peters, G.M. (2017). Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 162, 1368-1375. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.128
Zilahy, G. (2016). Sustainable Business Models – What Do Management Theories Say? Vezetéstudomány, 47(10), 62-72. https://doi.org/10.14267/VEZTUD.2016.10.06
WRAP (2017). Valueing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion. https://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf
Downloads
Megjelent
Hogyan kell idézni
Folyóirat szám
Rovat
License
Copyright (c) 2021 Vezetéstudomány / Budapest Management Review
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors assign copyright to Vezetéstudomány / Budapest Management Review. Authors are responsible for permission to reproduce copyright material from other sources.